Visit to Normandy

May 21st-26th 2009
 Our party of 27 set off from St Ivo Leisure Centre at 6.00am. The comfortable coach (labelled Bella) took us to the Shuttle Terminal in record time, so that we were able to take an earlier passage than expected through the Tunnel. This set the whole tone for the trip - always on time or even a little ahead. But then, our members are always co-operative.
The drive across northern France through rolling farmland in bright sunshine - with a stop at a service station with its own wildlife park - brought us to Rouen and our very comfortable hotel, the Mercure Rouen Champs de Mars, on the edge of the city, in easy walking distance of theCathedral and the centre.

Our first visit, the next morning, was to the amazing 30 acre gardens at Le Vasterival, a 50 year creation by the Princess Sturdza, a Norwegian who at 94 still supervises the work. Meticulous planting and pruning results in full grown forest trees, underplanted with smaller trees, in turn underplanted with shrubs and ground cover, and year-round interest incorporated into the design. We were privileged to meet the Princess at the close of the tour.

After an excellent lunch, as a total contrast, we visited Le Bois de Moutiers, a house designed by Edwin Lutyens with gardens by Gertrude Jekyll, where we had a guided tour by the grand daughters of the owner who commissioned the house and gardens. A long steep site in a valley reaching down to the sea, full of vistas and hidden glades, it was reminiscent of a similar garden across the channel at Coleton Fishacre in Devon.

Finally, we visited the church at Varangeville, famous for being painted by Claude Monet, right on the sea, with magnificent views along the coast. The graveyard has a war grave which reminded us of the D-Day landings, soon to be commemorated in the area.
Back to Rouen, to go in search of dinner - throughout the whole trip, the local food and drink were excellent and much relished, whether a light snack of crepes or the full three course indulgence.

The next day we drove to Cambremer to Les Jardins Du Pays - different again. A most delightful mixture of English styles and French formality, with a number of charming little buildings scattered throughout.

A stunning cedula Flamingo caused some argument when viewed from a distance as to whether it was flowers or leaves in that vivid pink - the photograph provides proof!

We went on to Honfleur (where we saw the bronze women on the right) - by now it was raining and we made for the restaurants and bars for lunch, as here the sea food is particularly fine.
 

Day four, and a journey to the enchanting Chateau de Miromesnil at Tourville Sur Arques, birthplace of Guy de Maupassant, where we were shown round by the young couple who live there with their three children. This had a splendid walled kitchen garden, full of thriving vegetables as well as grassland and a small chapel in the woods where their children were baptised. Here, as in other places, we were put to shame by their excellent English, although we did try to use such French as we had! ("Je ne comprends pas.")

Lunch was in Dieppe, followed by Le Clos du Coudray gardens (on right), created in the last 15 years.
 

On Sunday, some of the party attended Mass at the cathedral, after which we drove to the Chateau de Mesnil - Geoffroy near Ermenouville. As well as the charming 18th century house, we were shown round the extensive rose gardens by the owner. Unfortunately, few of the roses were out, but it was obvious that this is a unique collection. The afternoon was spent exploring Rouen before returning to the hotel for a final dinner, when we were able to express our appreciation of the work done by Angela and Neil, our matchless driver.
 
After all the fine weather, the drive back to Calais was accompanied by torrential rain, so that a planned stop in Boulogne had to be abandoned. Again, an early arrival at the terminal meant we travelled much earlier than expected, so that we got back to St Ives in good time as well as high spirits. It was a splendid trip, superbly organised.

Elspeth Jervie and Olive Cutting (Photos by John Cutting)

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We saw six gardens, all different, all interesting, all in good weather. We stayed in Rouen and visited Honfleur and Dieppe. We practised our French, ate some good food and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly.
Highlights included the house and gardens at Le Bois de Moutiers.
The house, built by Lutyens as a young man, was spectacular with splendid spaces, windows and views. It was shown to us by two sisters, elderly grand-daughters of the original owner. The gardens near the house were by Jeykll; the park swept steeply down to the sea.
The 30-acre gardens at Le Vasterival were created 50 years ago by the Princess Sturdza who at 94 still autocratically oversees them. Large trees protected it from salt winds; they were heavily pollarded to allow underplanting of smaller trees and shrubs. The convention of year-round interest had been deeply considered and there were wonderful vistas.
One small chateau, the Chateau de Miromesnil, was shown to us by the young and charming owners. The house had much interest, the large walled garden had flowers and vegetables and no weeds, and there was an old chapel in the grounds. Another chateau had beautiful furniture and textiles and a wonderfrul rose garden. Though the roses were not out we could appreciate the work and knowledge involved.
Two other gardens we saw were recently designed and planted but with care, expertise and visual awareness. We learned about the use of English terms in French gardening (le Mixed-Border) and enjoyed the unusual plants and beautiful colour.
On our last evening we had a convivial evening when appreciation was expressed for the professionalism of Neil, our driver, and the hard work put in by Angela to arrange the trip.
Our journey home saw the first bad weather and we abandoned our projected visit to Boulogne but arrived back in St Ives in good spirits.

Elspeth Jervie

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For Maureen and I, the visit was a total success.  The gardens visited were absolutely splendid and so varied in style, content and layout.  The chateaux were also very interesting, as were the owners!  The time went by all too quickly.
 
As far as travelling was concerned, we had an extremely comfortable brand-new Mercedes coach, matched only by its excellent driver, Neal, who was unfailingly helpful and courteous.  We also enjoyed wandering around historic Rouen in the evenings and dining at some of its excellent restaurants.
 
All in all, a memorable trip and, we think, extremely good value for money when one considers all that was included in the cost.  We feel that Angela did a truly magnificent  job in organizing the trip and looking after us all so well.  We wish to convey our warmest thanks and appreciation to her for all her efforts on our behalf.  Definitely ten out of ten!  We look forward to the next trip.
  
George and Maureen Taylor

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